Christmas at Mount Vernon
Christmas was primarily a religious holiday in 18th century Virginia, described by one colonist in 1774 as "the day set apart to remember the
Nativity of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ." It was also, however, a festive occasion marked by visits between friends and relatives, parties, and public assemblies. A great deal has been written about the Washingtons and Christmas, much of it greatly embellished and characterized by wishful thinking. As evidenced by George Washington's correspondence, his diaries and cash accounts, Christmas at Mount Vernon followed the typical Virginia pattern, which was far more simple than twentieth century Americans may feel comfortable with.
Religion played a part in the observance of the holiday at Mount
Vernon, for the Washingtons occasionally attended church on Christmas day.
In 1770, Christmas was a Tuesday and after going to nearby Pohick Church in the morning, the family returned to Mount Vernon for dinner. Similar patterns were followed in 1771 and 1772, when December 25th fell on a Wednesday and Friday, respectively. During his first year as president, Washington attended St. Paul's Church in New York City on Christmas day, a Friday, and later a number of "respectable" visitors came to see Martha Washington at her regular weekly levee. Records from other years are not always complete, so the Washingtons could easily have gone to church on other Christmases for which there is no documentation.
While they preferred to spend the holiday with family and friends,
George and Martha Washington themselves were seldom the guests of others at
Christmas. The surviving records are not complete, however, except for the years of the French & Indian and Revolutionary Wars, when George Washington was with the army, 1769 was one Christmas he and Martha spent away from home. The whole family went to Williamsburg that fall. While George Washington attended the House of Burgesses, his wife and her two children amused themselves in Virginia's capital city and in visits to Martha's sister at Eltham Plantation. The family headed for home on December 22nd, but spent several days in Fredericksburg with George Washington's sister's family at Kenmore and with his mother. They arrived at Mount Vernon on the 28th in time for dinner. A letter from Martha Washington to her granddaughter makes an even stronger case for the family's usual holiday practice. During the presidency, while Nelly Custis spent the winter of 1795/6 with her mother in Virginia, her grandmother tried to keep her apprised of social events in Philadelphia, writing shortly after the start of the new year: "The President and my self [sic] are much obliged to you my dear for your good wishes to us & we have spent our christmas [sic] at home as we always have done...."
Particularly in the "golden years" prior to the Revolution, houseguests, generally close friends and relatives, frequently came to Mount Vernon for several days at a time around Christmas. The Washingtons seem to have looked forward to these visits. Early in 1774, Martha Washington wistfully wrote to a friend, regretting that the young woman had not come to Mount Vernon during the holiday: "...I should have been very glad to have seen you hear [sic] this christmast [sic] if you coud [sic] have spared so much time out of town...." Having a young woman in the house may have been especially important that Christmas because her daughter Patsy had died the previous summer. Many years later, George Washington informed an absent friend that, "...Altho' I lament the effect, I am pleased at the cause which has deprived us of the pleasure of your aid in the attack of Christmas pies...." Younger members of the family appear to have shared the Washingtons' appreciation for guests at this season.
Nephew George Augustine Washington managed Mount Vernon during the first term of his uncle's presidency. One year he sadly reported that, "...I have passed a dull Christmas having seen no one but those that belonged to the Family [the common designation for the slaves]..." Nelly Custis Lewis, Martha Washington's youngest granddaughter, practiced the hospitality she learned from the Washingtons. When the nephew of a long-time friend visited Washington, D.C. in December of 1824, Nelly longed to have him with her over the holiday: "...I shall send to Mr Tucker tomorrow to request him to bring Mr Bordley here with him on Christmas day-I hope he will come & spend his Christmas with us...."
While at Mount Vernon, guests were always encouraged to make themselves at home and took part in typical seasonal activities enjoyed by the Washingtons. Throughout the year, the family played host to a large number of guests, many of them relatively unknown; those friends and family who came at Christmas were even more likely to have felt at ease and to have joined the family in their amusements. A young member of the household recalled many years later that after breakfast, "if there were guests (and it was seldom otherwise), books and papers were offered for their amusement; they were requested to take good care of themselves...." According to a guest who came to Mount Vernon about 1781: "...Your apartments are your home, the servants of the house are yours, and whilst every inducement is held to bring you into the general society in the drawing room, or at the table, it rests with yourself to be served or not with everything in your own chamber...."
Male guests could have joined the men of the family in one of the vigorous outdoor sports they loved. The first Christmas after George and
Martha Washington were married was not an especially happy time for the young family. Martha Washington broke out with a severe case of measles on New Year's Day and, within a couple of days, several of the slaves had contracted the disease. Quite worried about his wife, George Washington stayed close to home, but did spend time at his landing "hauling the seine to catch fish," where he was bothered by "an Oyste[r] Man who had lain at my Landing and plagud [sic] me a good deal by his disorderly behaviour." Hunting, and especially foxhunting, was another favorite activity. Twice in 1768 and three times in both 1771 and 1773, Washington went hunting with visiting friends between Christmas and Twelfth Night. Three gentlemen, Messrs. Montgomerie, Piper, and Harrison, arrived at Mount Vernon on January 2, 1772, and two days later accompanied George Washington and Bryan Fairfax "a Hunting". They "Found both a Bear & Fox but got neither...."
Eighteenth century meals always appear bountiful to twentieth century eyes and there is no reason to suspect that those at Christmas were any different from others in the quantity of foods displayed. There are, unfortunately, no descriptions of a Christmas dinner at Mount Vernon and only a few indications of foods associated with this season. One dish known to have been served regularly was Christmas pie. Washington's friend and former aide, David Humphreys, wrote in November of 1786 to apologize for his anticipated absence at Christmas: "The Rendezvous of my Regt. is at Hartford, where I may probably be the greater part of the Winter. Tho I shall not have the felicity of eating Christmas Pies at Mount Vernon, I hope & trust my former exploits in that way will not be forgotten...." Humphrey's "exploits" were missed that year. The day after Christmas, George Washington informed him that they had "had one [a pie] yesterday on which all the company, tho' pretty numerous, [there were at least nine people present] were hardly able to make an impression...." One of Martha
Washington's cookbooks included a recipe for this impressive dish:
"FIRST make a good standing crust, let the wall and bottom be very thick; bone a turkey, a goose, a fowl, a partridge, and a pigeon. Season them all very well, take half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of black pepper, all beat fine together, two large spoonfuls of salt, and then mix them together. Open the fowls all down the back, and bone them; first the pigeon, then the partridge, cover them; then the fowl, then the goose, and then the turkey, which must be large; season them all well first, and lay them in the crust, so as it will look only like a whole turkey; then have a hare ready cased, and wiped with a clean cloth. Cut it to pieces; that is joint it; season it, and lay it as close as you can on one side; on the other side woodcocks, moor game, and what sort of wild fowl you can get. Season them well, and lay them close; put at least four pounds of butter into the pie, then lay on your lid, which must be a very thick one, and let it be well baked. It must have a very hot oven, and will take at least four hours."
Another food associated with the Christmas season were large cakes, which were often specially decorated for Twelfth Night. Other Virginians are known to have celebrated the traditional end of the holiday with these cakes and there is indirect evidence for such a practice at Mount Vernon. For many years, especially before the Revolution when so much about the Washingtons' life changed, they seem to have visited with the same close friends, on or about the 6th of January, which was also their wedding anniversary. For instance, in spite of Martha Washington's illness the first Christmas after their marriage, the Washingtons entertained their neighbor, Sally Fairfax, and three gentlemen for dinner on the fifth. On January 6, 1769, three members of the Fairfax family and another man came to dinner and ended up spending the evening and the Fairfaxes were back again in 1770 and 1771. Two years later, January 6th found Colonel Fairfax and fourteen other men at Mount Vernon. Six people, including four members of the Digges family, came in 1775. Among the surviving papers of Martha Washington is a recipe for a "great Cake," written for her by granddaughter Martha Parke Custis. This type of rich fruit-filled cake was the traditional accompaniment for Twelfth Night festivities:
"Take 40 eggs and divide the whites from the yolks & beat them to a froth then work 4 pounds of butter to a cream & put the whites of eggs to it a Spoon full at a time till it is well work'd then put 4 pounds of sugar finely powderd [sic] to it in the same manner then put in the Youlks [sic] of eggs & 5 pounds of flower [sic] & 5 pounds of fruit. 2 hours will bake it add to it half an ounce of mace & nutmeg half a pint of wine & some frensh brandy."
The Washington family were not the only ones at Mount Vernon observing the Christmas holidays. There is abundant evidence that the white servants and slaves had four days off from work and took considerable advantage of that fact. The weekly reports from Washington's overseers detail the various tasks undertaken by the slaves, including their days off. In 1785, for instance, the overseer reported on the last day of the year that the men at Ferry Farm had been "employed since the Hollidays [sic] making Horse pens." This would suggest that they had more than one day off. The holiday was more definitely spelled out the following year, when the slaves at Muddy Hole Farm had "4 days holidays, being Christmas...." On December 29th George Washington wrote that, "The hollidays [sic] being over, and the People all at work, I rid to the Ferry-Dogue run, and Muddy hole Plantations-also to the Ditchers...," indicating that the slaves were exempt from work on the 25th, 26th, 27th, and 28th. Four years later, on the 28th, Washington's manager informed him that: "...we could not accomplish the geting [sic] in of the Corn before Christmas but it will be immediately set about after the holidays which expires this day (Tuesday)...."
For a particular group of slaves, however, the Christmas holiday would not have brought relief from work. Cooks and house servants provided essential services, which could not be neglected for even a day. In order to give them as much free time as possible, the Washingtons may have adjusted their daily schedule, much as they made a habit of doing on Sundays. In describing George Washington's usual routine to a friend, Nelly Custis Lewis gave a clue as to one way the family tried to make life easier for their slaves: "...The Genl rode every day to his Farms & returned at 2 oclock generally-dressed & dined at 3 every day, except Sunday-2 oclock was the hour on that day, to accomodate his servants with a long afternoon...."
The white servants appear to have been given the same holiday as the slaves. When George Washington hired a new gardener in the spring of 1787, the amount of time the man would have off for a number of holidays, including Christmas, was stipulated in the contract:
"In Consideration of these things being well and truly performed on the part of the sd. Philip Bater [or Bates], the said George Washington doth agree to allow him...four Dollars at Christmas, with which he may be drunk 4 days and 4 nights; two Dollars at Easter to effect the same purpose; two Dollars also at Whitsontide, to be drunk two days...."
A four-day respite from work seems to have been the norm on other estates, as well. The tutor at Belvidera Plantation near Fredericksburg was an indentured servant, who kept a diary of his experiences in Virginia. On December 29, 1774, at the end of his first Christmas in the colony, the young man recorded that, "I began to keep school."
Before Mount Vernon's workforce could rest, however, there were extra chores to do. Several tasks had to be completed before the beginning of the holiday, because the residents of the mansion house still needed regular supplies in the period the slaves were off. In order to tide the family over, three of the male slaves from Washington's Dogue Run Farm spent Christmas Eve of 1785 "at [the] home House cutting wood for Christmas", while those at Ferry Farm were busy "getting w[oo]d for Christmas". The next year, one of the carts from Dogue Run was busy "at the house for provision [sic] &c for Christmas...."
Once they were off, the slaves and white servants played with an abandon, which concerned the Washingtons. During the first term of the presidency, George Augustine Washington managed Mount Vernon for his uncle. Shortly before the Christmas season of 1790, George Augustine wrote that he had planned to make a long visit to Berkley, but the press of work still to be done and illness among the slaves prevented him from leaving: "...I shall now delay untill [sic] after Christmas as I should not wish to [be] absent at that time as I always observe at that time much attention is necessary to preserve order and [p]revent abuses...." Three days after Christmas he restated his special feeling of responsibility during this season: "...Christmas being a time that requires more attention than any other to preserve order in a large Family I thought prudent not to absent myself during that time...."
Spirited games and drinking were an integral part of the celebration for the servants, both black and white. The slaves, unfortunately, kept no records of their Christmas activities, but these might be inferred to a certain extent from how they spent their regular day off each week. Visitor Julian Niemcewicz came to Mount Vernon in the late spring of 1798, where he found the slaves enjoying a Sunday: "...there were about thirty divided in two bands playing at the bar. They were springing and gamboling as if they were at rest all through the week...." As evidenced by the agreement between George Washington and Philip Bater, quoted above, getting and staying drunk was a given for the working class at holidays. Mount Vernon's workforce was not unusual in this regard and, for the indentured servants, whose families were still in Europe, homesickness may have been a contributing factor. The newly-arrived tutor on another Virginia plantation started a poem on December 27, 1774, which began: "Both the last nights quite drunk was I, Pray God forgive me [of] the sin; But had I been in good company, Me in that case No man had seen...."
Drinking and rough-housing may have played a part in a tragic occurrence, which cost one Mount Vernon servant his life. Shortly after the first Christmas of the Revolution, George Washington learned from his manager that, "John Broad [a white servant] in a playing frolic last Sunday, got a small wound in the thigh which gives him much pain. It is very much swelled and inflamed. He thinks it will kill him, but I am of a different opinion...." Broad had been in Alexandria on Christmas Eve with another servant, when the two started fencing with an old rusty sword and a stick and the accident occurred. Broad's situation deteriorated over the next month and by the end of January the doctor had pronounced his case incurable. His death was reported in a letter dated February 22nd.
Such incidents were not unique to Mount Vernon. At Sabine Hall, a similar "frolic" cost a servant named Tom Freshwater his job: "...now the villain has taken to his old drunken Course and even against his bond went off the Plantation at Christmas on board a New England man [a ship] and there in his gambols got one of his feet so wounded as to be fit for no service at all so that I ordered him off as it was not in my business he got his hurt...."
Besides freedom from work, both slaves and white servants sometimes received gifts of money or alcohol at Christmas, a practice, which had been imported from England. George Washington's financial records note that "one Galln. Whiskey," costing three shillings, was given "to the Negroes at Xmas" in 1762 and 1766. The relatively small amount of whiskey given out may indicate that the recipients were favorite slaves or perhaps the house servants and cooks who would not have been off for four days. The overseer, a Mr. Morris, was given one pound and ten shillings and Mike, who may have been a slave, received ten shillings for Christmas in 1768. On December 24, 1787, fifteen shillings were distributed to the servants "for Christmas". The next year, the tailor, shoemaker, and "Dutchman" were given three shillings each, Washington's secretary Tobias Lear got twelve shillings, and two slaves, Peter and Giles, each received six shillings. While in Philadelphia during the second term of the presidency, five dollars went to "watchmen as a Christmas gift". Similar gifts brightened the holiday for servants on other Virginia plantations. John Harrower, the tutor at Belvidera Plantation, wrote that on Christmas morning his employer "Ordred [sic] up to school two Bottles of the best Rum and some suggar [sic] for me." On the following day, Colonel Daingerfield loaned him a saddle so that the young man could "ride to Toun [sic] and Amuse myself," and then gave him six shillings for spending money.
George Washington's military and political duties took him to other parts of the country, where different local customs regarding holiday gift-giving appear to have been taken into consideration. His first two Christmases as president were spent in New York, where Dutch influences were strong and New Year's day was traditionally celebrated with special food and drink. Although there is no evidence that the Washingtons themselves adopted these "foreign" customs, Washington did, on the first day of 1791, give one dollar "to a printer's Boy for a new Year's Gift". A like amount given to another printer's boy on the same day could easily have been a New Year's gift, as well.
Many of the things twentieth century Americans expect to find at Christmas are of Germanic origin and were unknown to the residents of Mount
Vernon. Williamsburg did not receive its first Christmas tree until 1842, when a German faculty member at the College of William and Mary set one up. Stockings filled with "good & usefull [sic] things" were part of the Dutch Saint Nicholas Day celebration in New York, but were not part of the tradition in Anglican and Quaker sections of the country. The Christmas holidays at Mount Vernon were, however, a happy time, bringing together family and friends, good food, and freedom from work. One could hardly want for more.
Mary V. Thompson, Curatorial Registrar
Mount Vernon Ladies' Association
1990